Day 3: Dolomites: Cortina to Rifugio Giussani

We both struggled to sleep, our day of sitting through multiple modes of transport not tiring our bodies and the lack of much adventure, probably combined with the change in time, left us both tossing and turning endlessly, only to be woken way too early by the alarm we’d set.  Breakfast was mediocre, but we were excited to finally get hiking into the mountains above.

After attempting to track down a lost water bottle at one of yesterdays stops, we headed north through Cortina, past the old Olympic stadium, and to the ski lift that would take us up to Col. Druscie.  The clouds still blanketed the sky, but we’re higher up now, showing more of the grandiose rocky peaks surrounding us.  The lift opened at 9, we arrived 15 minutes after, and we bought a ticket and we’re on the lift with no line to wait for.  The ride up the lift was fast and a fantastic way to start the day.

We snapped some pics of the observatory at the top, spent some time orienting ourselves, and then got on our way.  The signage at first was a bit unclear, as our route, prepared by Mont Trekking, started off down a road.  Neither of us were stoked about going down, because that meant we’d have to go back up later.  We eventually found our trail, the 407, and started back upwards along a treed thread.  Finally, after days of very little cardiovascular work (minus the Amsterdam airport sprint), our bodies were forced awake and the sweat started pouring out of us.  But with cool temps and increasingly beautiful view, we worked our way up and up.

Eventually we crossed under the gondola that continued from Col. Druscie to the peak of Tofano Di Mezzo, and connected with our intersecting trail, the 405.  This traversed southwest under the towering face above, eventually switchbacking up a screw field and placing us at Rifufio Duca d’Acosta.

We connected with another road, heading down for quite awhile, until connecting with the 403 trail.  This led us to Rifugio A.Dibina, wandering through the forest and sometimes on the road that leads to it.  Here, right around 12:15, we stopped for lunch, enjoying the cool, dry weather and vast views on the deck, looking over Cortina far below.   Coffee, wine, pasta, and bread… a little fancier than my normal summer adventures.  Everything goes slow in Italy when it comes to food it seems.  We finally got our check and we’re back on the trail around 1:30.

We decided here to deviate from the plan provided and took the 404 up and up to the Grotto Torfano.  Our legs were for sure feeling the day by now, and our time window to get to our nights rifugio was closing quickly.  We had a hard time finding the start, as the opening to the cave (grotto) is not visible from below.  Scrambling up the scree to investigate, I spotted the via ferrata cables and new we’d found the beginning.  Ditching our packs just below a snow patch tucked back in the gulley and sliding on our harnesses, lanyards, and helmets with headlamps, we began the climb.

The route immediately climbed up onto an exposed rock ledge and traversed out of the gully and far above the talus slope below for about 50 m before gaining another gully that led up and into the huge mouth of the cave.  Once we got the hang of it, we were able to move quickly along the thick steel cables, clicking our locking carabiners from one section of cable to the next.

Entering the cave, we switched on our headlamps, I out on an extra layer, and we continued to follow the cables into the darkness.  Our headlamps exposed massive ceilings above us as we scrambled along broken rock on the cave’s floor.  We descended a ladder into a big chamber that cut us off from the opening, and the cave could be seen wrapping to the left into the distance.  We decided to call time on our exploration, knowing we needed to get to the final rifugio by 6 and it was already 3:15.  We backtracked along the cables, returning to our stashed packs in no time at all.  Removing our equipment and load the packs, we began the descent from the via ferrata’s beginning and traversed the 404 back over to our originally planned route.

The last stretch up the 403 took us up many switchbacks up the scree col between Tofana di Rozes and di Mezzo.  As we headed up, everyone else headed down, having done a short day trip up and down from Rifugio Giussani.  By now our legs were very much so feeling the burn, and Sarah announced that her legs were officially tired.  Up and up we went, passing through the old remnants of a large collection of WW1 structures and finally to Rif. Giussani a little before 5.

Removing our shoes in the entryway, we stepped into the rifugio’s dining area, which was filled with people.  We checked in, were given an old school key to room 6, and told that dinner was at 7.   Winding our way up the spiral staircase, we found our room at the end of the hallway.  Wood panel everything but in a time rich and wholly appropriate way, with a shared wash closet (3 sinks, 1 toilet closet, 1 shower stall, and 1 bidet stall) our room with 2 bunks was all ours.  Disappointing was the lack of outlets to charge devices, but we found one in the hallway and another in the dining area later.  We both sat down with tired legs, letting our bags rest too.  The air here was cool, being at 2600 m and amongst the snow patches.  We changed (ok… Sarah changed, I didn’t) and both stretched out our legs, letting the blood rush back out of our tired, swollen feet.  According to our tracking of the day, we hiked somewhere around 8 miles and gained 7k feet, including the mornings lift.  We rested, and out in extra layers as the temps of the air and our bodies dropped.  I attempted to go outside and enjoy the beauty of this insane location, but the cold sent me back in after just a few minutes.  Changing finally into pants. A stocking hat that I now was happy to have hauled, and some additional warm layers, I grabbed the map and route plans, accidentally woke Sarah from an accidental Power Nap, and headed back outside to wrap my head around tomorrow’s hike.

Sarah joined me outside a few minutes later and quickly said “nope” to the cold air, stating that it was time to be seated for dinner.  Folding up the maps and papers I joined her and chose an empty table for dinner.  The crowd from earlier was mostly gone, leaving about 24 people for dinner.  We ordered a half liter of house red and a bottle of water each, then put it in our selections for the three course meal that was part of our stay.

I’m sure our day of hiking and adventuring factored heavily into the experience, but dinner was fantastic.  With the setting sun trying to burn off our faces through the window, the smooth wine, and hearty meal that FINALLY left me full (no more fancy pants bougie dinners please)… we were both content and satisfied with the day.  Relaxing in the dining area, taking in all the quirky decorations highlighting climbers and hearts, it was a beautiful end to the day.

Now, we rest and listen through the thin doors and floors to the voices of people from all over the world.  Tomorrow, will be a challenge.  Cold I think.